Sump Pump Replacement: 2010
The Problem
So, with the weather so rainy and threatening, and with a strong desire to avoid the four feet of water in the basement that we experienced in the fall of 2004, I’m executing an upgrade of our sump pump system.
The current compliment consists of two 1/3 horsepower pedestal pumps, sitting in a milk crate in the lowest part of the cellar. A separate PVC pipe for each unit routes water up to about seven feet, then discharges it outside, aimed toward the river. Of course if the water gets so high as to completely surround the house, then no amount of pump power will prevent basement fill-up.
These pumps proved inadequate in the flood of 2004, because the water level rose above their motors, which are not waterproof. They remained under water for a couple days then, and that appears to have degraded their bearings. The first (better-working pump) of the two, when activated, emits a loud grinding noise, hinting that the bearing is contaminated with dirt particles, or rusted. The second sump pump is in worse shape. When its float switch is raised, the motor hums but often does not turn (stalled). When it does, it too makes the loud grinding noise.
Additionally, rocks, dirt, and other debris line the bottom inch of the the makeshift pump pan (the milk crate), and should be cleaned out, so as not to clog the pumps.
The Solution
I purchased a new sewage pump during yesterday’s shopping trip. This is a 3/4 horsepower, completely submersible unit constructed of cast iron, that can move over 8400 gallons of water per hour.
Given the above facts, my plan of attack for this problem is as follows:
- Remove both old sump pumps. DONE.
- Remove the milk crate and clean it out. DONE.
- Determine how deep the hole must be to accommodate the new pump. DONE.
- Dig out the hole to the appropriated dimensions as determined in the previous step. NOT NEEDED.
- Replace the milk crate. DONE.
- Obtain 2” PVC fittings and pipe to attach the new pump to existing plumbing. DONE.
- Install the new pump. DONE.
- Glue all fittings. DONE.
- Fasten the discharge pipe to ceiling beam for maximum stability.
I’m beginning this operation now and will track my progress in the comments below.
March 13th, 2010 at 7:44 am
09:15 AM: Removed both old pumps.
09:30 AM: Removed and cleaned out the milk crate.
09:35 AM: Removed excess dirt and debris from the hole.
09:40 AM: Determined that the new pump, with proper adjustment, will work well in the existing hole.
09:42 AM: Rounded up all pipe and fittings I have in stock for this sort of job. Unfortunately, we need some additional pieces. I’ll arrange to get them in Altoona this afternoon. The new pump requires 2” fittings whereas the old pumps used 1.5 ” fittings.
10:00 AM: I cut out the existing 1.5” fittings; a reciprocating saw works well for this sort of job.
12:40 PM: Heading to Lowe’s to purchase the 2” fittings.
02:00 PM: I’m home again.
03:40 PM: The new pump is installed; all pipes have been cut to correct lengths and the fittings have been glued together.
06:00 PM: Repositioned the float switch to work best in this particular hole. So far, no water. But if any comes in, we’re ready now.